The Next Evolution in Circularity Must Address Microplastics

They may be invisible to the naked eye, but microplastics are becoming hard to ignore.

Namely, because they’re everywhere—from the ocean to our soil, air, and, yes, even our bodies. Shed from textiles, packaging, and other everyday products, microplastics find their way into our ecosystems when they’re released during their use, maintenance, and end of life.

Many organisms—including not only marine life but also terrestrial animals, birds, and even humans—often ingest microplastics by mistaking them for food. Even more concerning, due to their microscopic size, microplastics can become airborne and be inhaled, posing a silent threat to respiratory health. While the risks to human health are significant, the environmental fallout of microplastic pollution extends further, affecting soil fertility, plant growth, and even contributing to climate change.

Industries across the globe have been slowly waking up to the idea of a circular supply chain, but the microplastics discussion to date has generally formed around what happens after a product is used. Instead, it’s time we refocus the conversation upstream, assessing how we design, source, and manufacture the materials that contribute to microplastic pollution.

Refocusing the microplastics conversation around circularity

The textile industry is one of the largest contributors to the release of microplastics, which occurs at all stages of a garment’s life cycle: from production, use and maintenance (especially washing), to final disposal. The microparticles are difficult to filter out and therefore end up in waterways, the air, and even food. Yet, despite being a contributor to pollution, microplastics don’t get much attention even among proponents of a circular economy, wherein companies look to design out waste and pollution and leverage materials that avoid landfills through regeneration and recycling.

Of course, even materials that are designed to be more durable and recyclable can be contributors to microplastic pollution. If we fail to address this gap in responsible engineering, we risk undermining public trust in circular models and compromising the very ecosystems we aim to protect.

Toward standardization and true accountability

Several factors impact the likelihood that textiles release microplastics:

• Type of fiber or yarn: Staple fibers, made from shorter strands, tend to fray and shed more than continuous filament fibers.
• Fiber material: Some materials resist stress, abrasion, and wear better due to their chemical and mechanical properties.
• Fabric construction: Seamless or continuous fabrics typically shed less than those made from multiple yarn pieces.
• Maintenance: Certain fibers withstand washing and other mechanical stress better over time.
• Wear and aging: Use and environmental exposure accelerate fiber breakdown and microplastic release.

As it stands, the lack of standard measurement serves as a massive barrier to microplastic mitigation. Without agreed-upon testing protocols for microplastic release, it’s difficult for suppliers, brands, and consumers to compare products or track meaningful progress.

‘If you want to manage a problem, you have to measure it’

That’s why Aquafil invested in creating a standard methodology to precisely measure the release of microplastics, better understand what causes the release, and construct products that limit the microplastics footprint. Together with CNR of Biella STIIMA and the textile commission of UNI CT 046, and after nearly five years of work, we published that methodology.

ISO 4484-2:2023 serves as the first standardized way of looking at microplastics from the textile sector in solid, liquid, or gas streams and measuring them both quantitatively and qualitatively. This standard view is a first step toward solving the problem of microplastic pollution.

Better design to prevent microplastics

Aquafil is on a mission to bring the textile industry toward a circular future. That means innovating new production processes and fibers that minimize microplastic pollution.

To date, advances in polymer science and textile engineering are already making it possible to create low-release materials without compromising performance or look. But the industry must come together if we’re to reach a truly circular economy. Industry leaders can take action right now by choosing low-shedding materials, supporting standardization, and investing in data-driven testing. Further collaboration across the supply chain can scale adoption.

By designing for circularity while understanding the causes and impact of microplastics, companies can minimize their environmental impact and become active participants in the next wave of sustainable innovation.

As we strive for more sustainable product development, a critical question emerges: can we truly pursue ecodesign without understanding the full environmental and real-life impact of our products?

Focusing solely on CO₂ emissions and water usage, while essential, offers only a partial view. It’s time we broaden our scope to include a new, yet equally pressing metric: the Microplastic Footprint (MP footprint).

From the earliest stages of production through to disposal and beyond, many products continuously release microparticles into the environment, especially when made with or containing even small amounts of non-biodegradable synthetic materials. This includes not only plastics but also printed materials, coated surfaces, mixed-fiber textiles, and glitter—all common and often overlooked contributors.

Incorporating the MP footprint into ecodesign means looking beyond material origin. To design responsibly, we must account for:

• Material composition – not just natural vs. synthetic, but also the likelihood of fragmentation and the toxicity of resulting particles.
• Manufacturing processes – which may release microplastics through abrasion, waste, or equipment wear.
• Usage and maintenance – friction, washing, and environmental exposure can all contribute to microplastic release during a product’s lifespan.
• End-of-life management – including improper recycling, landfill breakdown, and degradation that releases persistent microplastics into ecosystems.

Incorporating the MP footprint into ecodesign is essential for truly sustainable innovation. Measuring and reducing the Microplastic Footprint of our products isn’t just a technical step—it’s a necessary shift in mindset, not only to help protect our ecosystems but also reduce long-term risks to human and animal health.

Read more:

• https://www.aquafil.com/magazine/new-international-standard-for-measuring-microplastics/
• https://sustainablebrands.com/read/materials-packaging/forever-cost-materials-conscious-designers
• Linkedin Post

Author: Tiziano Battistini, Group - Coordination of Innovation and Research Projects